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Wednesday, May 14, 2025

Extremely skilled American mountaineer dies of cardiac arrest climbing 27,838 ft peak


American mountaineer Alexander Pancoe died, possible from cardiac arrest, whereas making ready to summit Mt Makalu in Nepal.

The famend mountaineer from Illinois felt unwell late on Sunday evening at Camp II after coming back from Camp III, Iswari Paudel, managing director at Himalayan Guides, the expedition organiser, advised The Unbiased.

Pancoe, 39, had accomplished an acclimatisation rotation to Camp III, a follow climb meant to assist the physique adapt to diminished oxygen ranges earlier than a summit try.

Pancoe aimed to lift $27,838 – the peak of Mt Makalu in ft – for Lurie Kids’s pediatric blood most cancers programme in his hometown.

The climber had survived a mind tumour however was battling leukaemia on the time of his dying.

On Mt Makalu, the fifth-highest peak on the earth at 27,838 ft (8,485m) above the ocean stage, climbers cross by way of high-altitude camps to acclimatise to the situations. Camp II is usually at 21,653-22,310 ft (6,600-6,800m) and Camp III at 23950-24278 ft (7,300-7,400m).

Mr Paudal advised The Unbiased that “Alex died probably of cardiac arrest”.

“The reason for the dying might be confirmed after postmortem solely, however we suspect that it was a cardiac arrest,” he stated on the telephone from Kathmandu.

Mr Paudel stated Pancoe had reached Nepal early final month.

On Sunday, Pancoe’s crew of 4, his expedition chief, was about to relaxation for the evening when he felt unwell. The teammates tried to revive him for over an hour, however he was unresponsive, Mr Paudel stated.

Pancoe’s household and the US embassy in Kathmandu had been knowledgeable of his dying, Mr Paudel stated, and efforts are ongoing to retrieve his physique from the camp.

The Unbiased has reached out to the US embassy in Kathmandu for remark.

Alexander Pancoe

Alexander Pancoe (Alexpancoe/Instagram)

The Himalayan peak of Mt Makalu is on the border between Nepal and China’s Tibet, about 14 miles southeast of Mt Everest.

Pancoe was a outstanding determine within the mountaineering group.

He devoted his journey pursuits to supporting Lurie Kids’s Hospital in Illinois the place he had been operated upon after being identified with a mind tumour in 2005. He aimed to lift funds for mind tumour analysis by finishing the Explorers Grand Slam, a uncommon problem involving climbs of the Seven Summits and cross-country snowboarding to the North and South Poles.

He had based Peaks of Thoughts, a mission that merged his ardour for mountaineering with a dedication to psychological well being advocacy.

“It was a wild few years crammed with journey, a near-fatal climbing damage that required a Blackhawk helicopter rescue and plenty of climbing! In 2019, upon summiting Everest and Denali, I turned simply the fifteenth American and considered one of 75 folks on the earth to finish the Grand Slam, elevating nearly $500,000 within the course of for Lurie Kids’s,” Pancoe wrote on the Peaks of Thoughts web site.

“In 2023, whereas climbing Ama Dablam, a difficult climb within the Himalayan vary, I turned extraordinarily hypoxic and struggled with the altitude. A number of months later I used to be identified with Continual Myeloid Leukaemia and discovered that my physique had been unable to make the pink blood cells essential to acclimate at altitude.”

Continual Myeloid Leukaemia, he defined, was a “lifelong most cancers”. “After nearly two years of receiving remedy to handle it, I’m going to be trying to climb Makalu, the fifth highest mountain on the earth and lift $27,838 for Lurie Kids’s pediatric blood most cancers programme.”

Pancoe famous that “climbing at altitude is lots onerous with no continual ailment” however stated he seemed ahead to “rising to the problem”.

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